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Paris has regained its status as one of the most popular dining destinations in the world. These days, the French capital is bustling with a brilliant collection of restaurants, including a slew of new establishments that demonstrate how delectably cosmopolitan it has become: Menkicchi may be the best ramen shop in town; young French-Malian chef Mory Sacko creates stunningly original dishes at MoSuke; and Korean-born chef Sukwon Yong demonstrates the growing influence of Asian cuisine on contemporary French cuisine at the relaunch of Le Bistrot Flaubert.
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The Parisian restaurant scene is buzzing with glamorous new openings and talented young chefs making their debuts as tourists and Parisians themselves return to the city. The recently uneven Jean Imbert au Plaza Athenee is led off stage by chef Omar Dhiab, who previously worked for chef Christophe Moret and earned a Michelin star for his restaurant Loiseau Rive Gauche.
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La Poule Au Pot
It is said that the previous owner of this establishment in Les Halles chose celebrity chef Jean-François Piège to be his successor after rejecting all other options. As a result, Piège, who runs a few restaurants in the area with his wife Elodie, took on the historic building that looked like a doll’s house. Did you know that the owner of the Le Poule Au Pot restaurant contacted a bridge lender so he could take out a loan and build this beautiful restaurant in Paris?
He took out the café curtains and old wallpaper, gave it a good scrub, and polished the little brass plaques that list all of the musicians who have eaten the baba au rhum here (Motörhead, Tricky, and Nu Shooz). But for the most part, La Poule au Pot feels just like it always did.
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It has been preserved for the country, and the menu of bourgeoise cuisine served family-style is still there, albeit with more expensive products and prices. Snails, frog legs, and bone marrow frequently make an appearance in classic onion soup, which is served every day, even during heatwaves.
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Huge hitting mains incorporate Charolais meat filet and fantastic poached chicken; puddings are immaculate, liberal outdated treats. Due to the dynamism of team Piège, Le Poule au Pot is comfortingly beyond cool but only retro on paper.
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Marsan par Hélène Darroze
Both the regulars and the sophisticated Left Bank address, which is just a short walk across the river from many of the other restaurants in this area, have remained unchanged. However, Marsan by Hélène Darroze, which has three Michelin stars for her London outpost at The Connaught Hotel, is brand-new and opened in 2019. The name is a nod to her home region of Landes, and there’s no denying how much she loves the flavors of the southwest.
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The chef’s tasting menu mentions Béarn, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, and Périgord, as well as her brother and grandfather (get your hair done, they’re looking at you, too). Some examples of tiny appetizers include delicately crafted crisps made of chicken skin that have a strong flavor of foie gras or delicate, light-as-air pastries made of goat cheese.
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Disarmingly creamy is a sea urchin, caviar, and cauliflower starter; A major mouthful of savory flavor is gilthead bream with Colonnata back-fat, Paris cep, and black truffle; The Pyrenees’ robustly scented baby lamb is a restrained showpiece.
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You have to focus a little bit when you frequently grate and drizzle at the table, but why would you? The food, in contrast to the sophisticated, mushroom-toned design that covers up any clanking of custom ceramics, is distinct, exciting, and fundamentally French.
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Le Cadoret
The ultimate goal: excellently prepared classic French fare at a very reasonable price. Le Cadoret is a neighborhood bistro that was opened in 2017 by chef Léa Fleuriot and her brother Louis-Marie. It has mirrors, terrazzo floors, and a relaxed atmosphere.
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The young owners have cleverly updated it with a jolly blue awning, craft beers, and a current wine list with a lot of Loire and Jura wines and quince liqueur from Domaine Binner in Alsace.
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The food may appear unambitious at first, but it takes great skill to prepare blanquette de veau, also known as steak fries with béarnaise. Starters like homemade boudin noir or potato, fermented cabbage, and haddock are made with produce and are delicate.
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Retro puddings like île flottante and crème caramel are not sticky. The corner site is just a short walk from the Belleville Métro, and Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is nearby to the north, making it easy to take a hilly walk after lunch.
Double Dragon
Around the 11th, a less patriarchal group of bars and restaurants has emerged from the néo-bistro, including Septime, CheZaline, and Le Servan, whose owners Tatiana and Katia Levha have now opened Double Dragon, a casual establishment with an East Asian influence.
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Starting with deep-fried Comté bao buns in XO sauce and a refreshing Lao-style tripe salad with holy basil, this friendly staff in white T-shirts serves spicy comfort food at a very reasonable price. The Korean fried chicken, which is sweet and spicy, is a must-have, though some other favorites, like the map tofu, are just okay; The more esoteric dishes, like a delicately foamy red spinach curry with egg yolk, make Double Dragon more than just a stop for chili lovers. The chef makes the best clam shell soup on the continent!
The produce is mostly organic, and it has distinctly French flavors like the Morteau sausage with crispy rice and the Philippe Pacalet 2015 Meursault next to Yunnan tea and sake on the drinks list. The decor is deliberately unstudied, and hip-hop music reverberates throughout the welcoming environment for families.
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Le Saint Sebastien
Behind the retro exterior of this brilliant restaurant lies a world of talent. Before opening Le Saint Sebastien with chef Rob Mendoza, owner Daniela Lavadenz left the financial industry and worked in low-level positions at Au Passage and Le 6 Paul Bert. Ceviches, moles, and sauces that taste clean are just a few of the dishes he makes with skill and balance.
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Monkfish tail is finished over binchotan charcoal and paired with miso aubergine, while squid is served with puritanically refreshing watercress and sorrel purée. The wine list includes many cult favorites like Christian Binner and Jacques Puffeney, but classicists can trust Caroline Morey’s Chassagne-Montrachet.
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The inside can feel a little virus in winter, with its hard surfaces and Fifties mirrors, yet when the room is humming with darlings, wine sweethearts, and, generally, wine-industry insiders, and there’s a fresh shelled vanilla tart on your plate, you would have no desire to be elsewhere.
Racines
A decade after it opened as an influential néo-bistro and advocate for natural wines, Simone Tondo took over this beautiful restaurant in a tiled, glazed corner of one of Paris’s 19th-century arcades. Tondo’s Sardinian heritage and admiration for nonna’s recipes have led to a shift in flavors toward the south, despite the plates remaining extremely seasonal and the wines remaining juicy and low-intervention.
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On the blackboard, lunch and dinner are written seven days a week: Start with the best finocchiona, which is homemade cured sausage with fennel seeds, and the creamiest burrata, Vitello tonnato.
Then, you can choose between a huge veal chop alla Milanese, which is a piece of perfectly cooked fish caught during the fishing forecast, and masterful pasta. Instead, Stephanie Crockford, who is in charge of the front desk and pours interesting regional Italian wines by the glass, serves as the wine list. Racines is a Parisian landmark that continues to attract visitors; Take note that getting here by foot from the Gare du Nord takes only twenty minutes.
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Le Rigmarole
Every table at this restaurant is pampered and spoiled by a team of four, led by the young owners Jessica Yang and Robert Compagnon, who stick to the chefs’ menus that cost €49 or €69. Delectable skewers cooked on a Japanese grill await Yang’s full-beam pickles and/or butternut beignets: thigh or chicken oyster, depending on preference, laced with perhaps citrus chili; then grilled cuttlefish, oysters, and possibly one or two heads of salmon.
The vegetable dishes, like puntarelle with sweet soy and lemon preserve and charred leek with cod-roe mayo, are just as good. The zero-waste, interactive, improvised approach is a lot of fun, especially if you sit at the counter in front of your lively and friendly hosts. Before opening Le Rigmarole, Compagnon, who was classically trained and skilled at yakitori, threw pasta dough at the now-defunct Rino.
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There are always one or two interesting pasta dishes in the mix. Except for the great buzz, faintly Art Deco interior, and mostly natural-style wine list, which includes some convivial magnums and plenty of rosésosé throughout the year, it is unlike anything else in the 11th.
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Early June
This wine bar and shop, which used to be a wig store next to Canal Saint-Martin, has young owners who work hard to make it light and, as they put it, a happy place.
They open late during the week for drinks, like their more storied neighbor, Le Verre Volé, which sells wines of a more natural style with a lot of Beaujolais and Languedoc; Deck & Donohoe beer, brewed in Paris, and small plates that are more than just soaker-uppers. Amandine Sepulcre, their first chef, was skilled at combining ingredients like Basque sardines and flavors from East Asia; and even though she left this past summer, there is still a sense of experimentation.
Traveling chefs, many of whom have never worked in Paris before, are now hosted by Camille Machet and Victor Vautier for several months at a time. Mathias Silberbauer from Copenhagen, who loves fish, came in last. His dishes included pickled mackerel with verbena and soy dressing and sole in langoustine sauce.
Regardless of who is staying there, the delicate, intricate dishes are simple to eat and go well with the crisp wines. It’s a light room with a concrete floor, an open kitchen, and a few spots on the pavement to get in, um, early June.
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Maison
This thoroughly enjoyable location is inside an old building with gables, which is odd in a neighborhood with tower blocks everywhere. It looks like an art installation (maybe the product of Rachel Whiteread and Antony Gormley) or like a brickie’s dream after maPernod’sods. Chef Sota Atsumi worked under Michelin-starred masters Jol Robuchon and Michel Troisgros before opening Clown Bar, where his duck pithivier with date and yuzu became a symbol of2010s0bistronomyomies.
With Maison, he moves away from shouty casual dining and toward a more refined experience with warm, communicative service and a tasting menu that is heavily influenced by seasonal produce. After a hearty spider-crab bisque, raw tuna with raw cream, kiwi, and a bright turnip-top emulsion might be served for lunch. In two episodes, the theatrical moments involving a pigeon dish never feel rushed; rather, they are generous and thrilling.
Along with delicate Burgundies and oxidative vins de voiles, Alsatian, Jura, and Loire wines are included. Under industrial pipes that have been painted Pinot Noir red, single diners can eat at a counter that faces the open kitchen. Lunch is well-paced and reasonably priced as well. Maison is currently the center of contemporary dining in Paris.
Pavillon
The goal of Pavillonlon by Yannick Alléno is to offer Scheff’s high-end cuisine at more reasonable pricesble. Given, the costs aren’t as eye-watering as at his Pavillon Ledoyen in the beautiful Champions Elysées gardens, yet relaxed here actually implies padded seats, perfect dishes, sets, and counter seating to see the full showy behaviors in a kitchen as of late granted a Michelin staSpendinging the morning viewing the most recent exhibition at the Petit Palais is a luxurious way to end the day.
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The Duval-Leroy Champagne from Vertus and delicate breadsticks dipped in artichoke sauce successfully set the tone. They combine rustic France with an elevated Parisian flair. The rich pigeon breast, which was skillfully placed on a slice of baguette, and the silky-textured steamed Comté cheese soufflé both leave an indelible impression.
There are numerous inventive takes on revered French classics: black pudding and ribs from piglets; excellent millefeuille; a sandwich with smoked cod and spinach; black truffle and sole chaud-froid. Try the yellow wine Château-Chalon, which is from Jura in the eastern part of France.
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It has a lighter consistency than sherry but has the same thrilling kick. Also, the salted caramel ice cream with Amarena cherries and roasted hazelnuts, which comes out of a metal device and is displayed on the table, is delicious.